Change of Plans

After we left Storms River we headed up towards Addo Elephant Park (the cheapest self drive safari in this part of the country)... on the way there we tried to go to some hot springs to relax and mend our sore bones and muscles from all the walking we had done the previous couple of days but, I must of missed the street where we should turn and, by the time I realized it we had already done 50km and the only person who really wanted to go was S and she was asleep me and Frieder decided to move on ... that meant that we had an extra day in the park...

As the name itself suggests this is an elephant park and although there are also the big 5 most of the day we only got to see elephants... originally they started with 15 elephants and at the moment they have over 150 (this inbreeding resulted in some of the elephants not having tusks).... we started at 7am and as soon as we drove 2km we saw immediately one (ok Frieder saw it... it is unbelievable how it is possible that I missed suck a huge animal... but I did).. this was the first of many elephant sightings... when we passed a waterhole there was a herd of about 30 elephants drinking water and at this particular hole you could step out of the car... and so we did.... there were several parts where one could get out of the car at his own risk of course because of the lions... of course we all left the car as it is gonna take more than an overgrown pussy cat to prevent me from stretching my legs...

The most remarkable event of this self drive was when we saw to huge male elephants coming up.. they like most of the other animals we came across were either going to the waterholes or coming back from them... we positioned our car in a way that we would cut him off so I could take my National Geographic picture - which I did as you can see... there is no zoom in the camera the thing was about 2m away from the car - the funny thing was that the elephant didn t go around the car as we though it would but, kept going straight towards us with his ears flapping (which I later found out it is a sign that he is not happy and is considering to charge) at this moment I stick my head back in the car and tell Frieder to go... Go.... GO..... I don t know why but he didn t go immediately and, as the elephant came closer I started to roll up the window of the car (like it was gonna make a difference) and at this stage S was ready to burst in screams... everything was fine and I got a cool pic :D In this park we also saw warthogs - Pumba for Disney fans, Kutas, Buffalo, Zebras and other assorted animals whose name doesn t occur to me right now... I think it is important to note that our Fat Cat did very well... even in roads where it was only 4x4 only he never let us down (and of course the only reason we tried it was in pursuit of lions - which we ended up not seeing - and because there is no excess on our crash insurance)

The following day we went to a private game reserve... this gave us a chance to see a lot more animals because we were going on Land Rovers (so could go where the Fat Cat wouldn t take us) and because the area is a lot smaller then the National Park all the animals are more concentrated so they are easier to find and the rangers know exactly where they are (well more or less).... there we got to finally see 2 lioness and one with its cubs in the distance, gnus (wilder beast), white rhinos (unlike the black rhino who is one of the big 5, white are like big cows and, whilst they were grazing they came quite close to the car which allowed for some very cool pics), hippos etc..... nothing as exciting as the day before happened although we met a Dutch girl who told us where we can go to canoe amounts the crocs and hippos so they will be something to look forward to...

We continued North in search of warm weather, beach and some R and R time... we found it in Coffee Bay.... this was the first time that I truly felt that I was in Africa and, unfortunately for all the wrong reasons... the city is in the White Cost which is the poorest region in South Africa... people aren t miserable but, everywhere you see signs of poverty..... we walked along the cost for a about 6km until we got to a rock formation called the hole in the wall.... the hike there going up and down the hills was great it was the coming back however that was a pain... we couldn t go back the same way because it was getting darker so it would be dangerous... we were told at the hostel that we could just go to the main road and there we would easily find a ride back because the road only goes to Coffee Bay... we walked for about 1h30 and not a single car passed... in that time we were attacked 2 times by packs of stray dogs... we had heard that some girl had been attacked before and we were prepared, but to be honest I never though it would be so bad... every time we passed by a group of 3 or 4 houses we would have 5-10 dogs showing us the teeth... we ended having to call someone to come and pick us up as the first attack we managed to fend them off with our walking sticks and stones ... the second attack they came closer and closer and I think should we have kept on the road we would be bitten (and both Frieder and S have Rabies jabs but, I chose to skip that one - 160 pounds... extortion...)

After we left we were gonna stop in Durban just to go to Avis and get an extension on the rental of the Fat Cat but ended up managing to completely change our plan... S changed her flight from Swazi to Durban (saving us 1000km jst to go and take her there) and we got to do things more relaxed as Frieder still has another month and I still have another two months... because of this change of plans we went diving (just me and Frieder) and I got up close to a Raggie Tooth shark... it was the first time that I was diving in cold water and the tide was very strong so I managed to suck my air in 42m but, it was enough and to be honest I was absolutely freezing so when I saw that my air was running out there was a mix of happiness that I was gonna get out of the water and sadness because of the stuff I was gonna miss... and of course as soon as I left there was a school of sardine and a manta ray... oh well next time...

S leaves tom and me and Friender are going to Drakesberg and I will be incommunicado for the next 8 days... when I m back I ll let you know... if I make it of course because I wasn t planning on going to snowy mountains and all I have is two jumpers and one polar jacket...

Hope everyone is well

Cheerios for now...