Change of Plans

After we left Storms River we headed up towards Addo Elephant Park (the cheapest self drive safari in this part of the country)... on the way there we tried to go to some hot springs to relax and mend our sore bones and muscles from all the walking we had done the previous couple of days but, I must of missed the street where we should turn and, by the time I realized it we had already done 50km and the only person who really wanted to go was S and she was asleep me and Frieder decided to move on ... that meant that we had an extra day in the park...

As the name itself suggests this is an elephant park and although there are also the big 5 most of the day we only got to see elephants... originally they started with 15 elephants and at the moment they have over 150 (this inbreeding resulted in some of the elephants not having tusks).... we started at 7am and as soon as we drove 2km we saw immediately one (ok Frieder saw it... it is unbelievable how it is possible that I missed suck a huge animal... but I did).. this was the first of many elephant sightings... when we passed a waterhole there was a herd of about 30 elephants drinking water and at this particular hole you could step out of the car... and so we did.... there were several parts where one could get out of the car at his own risk of course because of the lions... of course we all left the car as it is gonna take more than an overgrown pussy cat to prevent me from stretching my legs...

The most remarkable event of this self drive was when we saw to huge male elephants coming up.. they like most of the other animals we came across were either going to the waterholes or coming back from them... we positioned our car in a way that we would cut him off so I could take my National Geographic picture - which I did as you can see... there is no zoom in the camera the thing was about 2m away from the car - the funny thing was that the elephant didn t go around the car as we though it would but, kept going straight towards us with his ears flapping (which I later found out it is a sign that he is not happy and is considering to charge) at this moment I stick my head back in the car and tell Frieder to go... Go.... GO..... I don t know why but he didn t go immediately and, as the elephant came closer I started to roll up the window of the car (like it was gonna make a difference) and at this stage S was ready to burst in screams... everything was fine and I got a cool pic :D In this park we also saw warthogs - Pumba for Disney fans, Kutas, Buffalo, Zebras and other assorted animals whose name doesn t occur to me right now... I think it is important to note that our Fat Cat did very well... even in roads where it was only 4x4 only he never let us down (and of course the only reason we tried it was in pursuit of lions - which we ended up not seeing - and because there is no excess on our crash insurance)

The following day we went to a private game reserve... this gave us a chance to see a lot more animals because we were going on Land Rovers (so could go where the Fat Cat wouldn t take us) and because the area is a lot smaller then the National Park all the animals are more concentrated so they are easier to find and the rangers know exactly where they are (well more or less).... there we got to finally see 2 lioness and one with its cubs in the distance, gnus (wilder beast), white rhinos (unlike the black rhino who is one of the big 5, white are like big cows and, whilst they were grazing they came quite close to the car which allowed for some very cool pics), hippos etc..... nothing as exciting as the day before happened although we met a Dutch girl who told us where we can go to canoe amounts the crocs and hippos so they will be something to look forward to...

We continued North in search of warm weather, beach and some R and R time... we found it in Coffee Bay.... this was the first time that I truly felt that I was in Africa and, unfortunately for all the wrong reasons... the city is in the White Cost which is the poorest region in South Africa... people aren t miserable but, everywhere you see signs of poverty..... we walked along the cost for a about 6km until we got to a rock formation called the hole in the wall.... the hike there going up and down the hills was great it was the coming back however that was a pain... we couldn t go back the same way because it was getting darker so it would be dangerous... we were told at the hostel that we could just go to the main road and there we would easily find a ride back because the road only goes to Coffee Bay... we walked for about 1h30 and not a single car passed... in that time we were attacked 2 times by packs of stray dogs... we had heard that some girl had been attacked before and we were prepared, but to be honest I never though it would be so bad... every time we passed by a group of 3 or 4 houses we would have 5-10 dogs showing us the teeth... we ended having to call someone to come and pick us up as the first attack we managed to fend them off with our walking sticks and stones ... the second attack they came closer and closer and I think should we have kept on the road we would be bitten (and both Frieder and S have Rabies jabs but, I chose to skip that one - 160 pounds... extortion...)

After we left we were gonna stop in Durban just to go to Avis and get an extension on the rental of the Fat Cat but ended up managing to completely change our plan... S changed her flight from Swazi to Durban (saving us 1000km jst to go and take her there) and we got to do things more relaxed as Frieder still has another month and I still have another two months... because of this change of plans we went diving (just me and Frieder) and I got up close to a Raggie Tooth shark... it was the first time that I was diving in cold water and the tide was very strong so I managed to suck my air in 42m but, it was enough and to be honest I was absolutely freezing so when I saw that my air was running out there was a mix of happiness that I was gonna get out of the water and sadness because of the stuff I was gonna miss... and of course as soon as I left there was a school of sardine and a manta ray... oh well next time...

S leaves tom and me and Friender are going to Drakesberg and I will be incommunicado for the next 8 days... when I m back I ll let you know... if I make it of course because I wasn t planning on going to snowy mountains and all I have is two jumpers and one polar jacket...

Hope everyone is well

Cheerios for now...

The Garden Route

I am sorry for the delay between post but as I said earlier since I left CT I have had little or no access to internet.

To put you up to date ... I left to Hermanus where I did the shark Cage diving (can scratch that from my lists of things to do before I am 30)... it was absolutely amazing... for 4h I was Jacques Costeau exploring the great misteries of the oceans greatest predator... there were loads of sharks coming for a piece of 73kg of prime portuguese beef ... the water was freezing and of course that the wetsuit that I took had a huge hole in it so not only was trying to focous so that none of my precious limbs were outside of the cage, but also trying not to freeze... it is wonderful because although i was cold, my lips were purple and I couldn t stop shivering I wanted to stay in the cage as long as I could and went back several time...this meant that actually it turned out to be quite cheap as the ratio money paid vs. time spent in the cage significantly increased.

The biggest shark that came was 4,5m which although is not a huge one (they can grow up to 8m) it was pretty impressive specially when you focoused on its souless eyes and multiple rows of teeth.... one of the occasions the shark was following the bait and it didn t turn in time to avoid hiting the cage... with its fins inside the cage I could of touched it but I chickened out perhaps it was the cold that prevented me from my arm obeying my brain... t be honest now looking back I think it was the latter one :D

S chose to stay on the boat she didn t want to go diving with the overgrown fish because of a mix of fear of both the shark and hypothermia... that proved to be the less of both evils as by staying on the boat not only did she get sick but, to make it more interesting another person who also was staying on the boat got sick and vomited on her ... not close to her, not around her... ON HER :D also the day before the dive she found out that the guy that took her card for a few min (couldn t be more than 2m) had somehow tried to present his girlfriend/wife with 4000eur worth of jewelery fortunately everything turned out to be ok as the transaction didn t go through.... I told her a holiday with me would be something she would remember for a long time ...

When we were back at the hostel we met a german guy Frieder who was also heading the same direction as we where going so, he joined us in our trip... we rented a car (a little Hyunday Atos which we call Fat Cat because the 2nd day we had it the crazy german almost ran over a very fat cat which was impossible not be be seen) as between three people it turned out to be cheaper than to take the bus... by having a car we can also buy food in supermarkets and take it with us... and food prepared by Chef Filipe and Frieder is for sure better than eating out... specially after 4years in Edi eating Tesco Value produce I now hold a Phd in Pasta ...

Frieder is a really cool german, great guy and the best.... he s got a plan and a guide book which is more than I have... he actually brough a map from germany and as done proper research and he wants to do more or less the same things as I do so it turned out to be perfect... also having another person travelling with me and S has prevented that we kill each other as we are used to different types of travelling...

All those that have had the pleasure of being driven by me know that I am not the most attentive driver so there is an extra element of adventure being brough to the trip....the first time that I saw a baboon on the side of the road I was staring at it whilst almost running over five other baboons that were crossing the road in front of me which caused everyone to have a heart attack (jst in case you are wondering iI didn t hit any)... also on a few occasion I have missed some very poorly signaled stop signs and, on some occasions I have the tendancy to drive on the left... despite all these minor incidents I always lock the doors... we might crash but I tell you we will not be car jacked...... safety first... the other driver Frieder isn t much better.... whilst driving at night, we chose to ignore my directions (which have a 50% chance of being correct) and managed to drive us straight into the middle of a gang (or if you prefer a gathering of 15 dodgy individuals looking at us like we were fillet mignon ready to be devoured)... luckily nothing happened as he accelerated and whilst we were passing nxt to them I put on my meanest look..

The next day we kept going to Outshoorn where we did a beautiful pass (Swartberg Pass) downhill on mountaine bike.... the scenery was completely breathtaking and it got us in the mood to continue to do the 54km we had to do that day (which unfortunately weren t all downhill).... that same day we went to the Kango caves where 4years of poor tesco value eating took its tool as I had to pass through some very narrow passing and, I not always managed to pass them in the most gracious manner... the day ended with a visit to an ostrich farm were we got to hear the history of the industry and, of course the highlight of the visit... ostrich riding.... (I have the video but can t upload it cause it would take too long...but it is worth waiting to see it once I get back)...

I though that my only financial excess in this trip would be the great white shark cage diving but then I heard about the worlds biggest commercial bungy jump... from a bridge into a gorge free falling 216m.... it was quite pricey (specially because I also bought the DVD of the jump) but, I was told that during the rebound you go up and it is like jumping again from the 2nd highest bungy in the world so technically I got two jumps for the price of one so, I went for it.... the atmosphere under the brige whilst preparing for the big jump was like everything else in Africa... very chilled out, everyone is laughting and having a good time.... in sum not the kind of staff you want when they are strapping you to a rope and literally throwing you off a brigde... yes throwing you.... as I was walking towards the edge like a poor sailor walking the plank I told them to wait wait wait and I would jump in my own time but, they jst pushed me anyway... I have never screamed so much in my entire life.... all I kept thinking was of my dream (when I was taking malaria pills in SE Asia on of the side effects is very realistic dreams... everyone has the dream when they are free falling and wake up before they hit the ground... well I actually hit it) and that 1/25m people that bungy have their eye balls popping out... fortunatelly everything was fine and obviously I made it :D

The trip continued along the garden route until Storms River where we did some amazing hikking rock hoping along the coast.. this is the famous Otter Trail which takes about 5 days and it is always along the cost which allows you to see beautiful landscape but also whales and dolphins (we didn t get to see the whales per say but we did see it spray ... twice)

The computer is again really slow so I will try and upload some more pictures when I can find a quicker connection...

I am going to Safari for a couple of days and after to Swazi to drop off S... I will try to post again as soon as I can... Hope all is well

Cheerios

I am alive.....

Hello... I am ok... Haven t been able to get a decent internet connection as I am in the countryside in ZA.... have lots to say and promise I ll post an update soon...

Cheerios

Cape Town... first impressions...

I arrived yesterday after a 11h flight... I think that it was the first time in a long time that I am not sitting next to the screaming child so that was a big plus. After waiting for my friend (hereafter refered as S) for two hours we went into town...

The hostel is ok although it is not central as mentioned on the website... We are about 10m walk from Long Street which all the guides refer has the big city centre where everything goes on... first impressions... during the day it is empty, all the stores are loocked and if you want to go in you have to be buzzed in and, during the night the only interaction I have had with the locals is when they are asking me for money (if they only new Cheap Man lararararara - you know the song you numpties all sing when you are talking about me :) or when they ask if I would like to purchase their fine colombian produce....

The first day we walked (rather than taking a taxi) all the way to the Waterfront... Cape Town no one walk - unless they are quite poor - everyone drives... so it was quite an interesting walk :P When we finally manage to arrive to the Waterfront a Marina like many others with a few restaurants a shopping centre and people performing in the streets chilled out for a while there and after went back to the hotel... this time because it was already night time S decided to take a taxi (not as cheap as me).... went back to the hostel had a few drinks during happy hour and went to bed...

My friend S.... 6 months or so ago, she told me that the friends she normally goes on holidays couldn t make this year and she didn t have anyone to go... I told her that she could come with me however, I made it very clear that a trip with me isn t your normal holiday it is more an adventure (what can I say... sh** happens to me... a lot)... she laughed and said that it is what she was looking for... I also told Pat to come with me but I guess he knows me better than her...

Today finaly she understood how adventurous my holidays really are and she already said she will never come again with me... and this was our first full day and still another 3 weks to go :P the day started with me being late, being the good portuguese that I am, and so rather than going on one of those city sight seeing buses we went to visit Bowders beach where there is a colony of penguins... we had several options to get there but the most economical one was just the local metrotrain... after finally convincing her we went in search of the train station...

Just before we actually made it to the train station as I refuse to use a map (you know the whole portuguese ancestry) she wanted to withdraw cash... we went to the ATM and this is when some random guy started trying to show us how to use the machine and ended up nicking her card... finally I noticed that he was hidding the card put my shoulders back (to pretend I was quite big) and took it back and left the bank... as we were trying to go to another ATM machine in another location I noticed that he s friend (a dodgy looking friend with a big scar on his face - and that is why I noticed him) was still following us.... we therefore ended up not getting any money (well her because I can live of 5 pounds a day) and going to the Metro.. at this point we actually realised that this was South Africa and that most people in Cape Town aren t exactly walking on the street... I think that here you end up hearing that this is the safest place in ZA that you can sometimes get a false sence of security altough I think that despite being a little of a hassle it wasn t motive to get too stressed..

The trip to Bowlers beach was fine and got to see how people who don t drive actually move about between the city and the suburbs... isn t travelling meant to give us a glimpse of how the other half live... I though it was a very enriching experience...

The beach itself was closed with a path so you couldn t mengle with the penguins anymore... this is the result of tourist coming to close with the birds with the morning suits which not only stressed them, but also they wouldn t hatch their eggs properly... innitially the colony had 3000 birds but, we only saw about 500 (estimate of course) so it is a big difference...

The ride return was even more hectic because we came back during rush hour but, because we started in the last stop (Simon s Town) we got to sit down... now I am back at the hostel and happy hour is about to begin....

This has been quite a big entry I am sorry if I bored you... by the time I noticed how big it was it was already too late to resume it... I promise the next ones will be sweeter and shorter unless you like the details... pls let me know what you reader think about the lenght of the entries... too long, too short, too boring etc..

Hope all is well... Cheerios for now

Ps the spell check isn t working so I appologise for any errors :P

Leaving the burgh....

After 3 1/2 in the Burgh I am leaving the city permanently to continue to gospel about the wonders of the Portuguese empire and how it makes complete sense to restore it ... so with what one collects in that time (minus what my cousin and her friend took before and what I had taken previously to London), Patty and Magda (who felt sorry for the poor condition of my crippled back after an intensive vacuum cleaning session - it was the first time that Chez Filipe was completely cleaned and I didn't even get to enjoy it) accompanied me to the station .... this would prove to be an impossible task to be done on my own (as may be seen in the picture) hence on top of everything else you've done for me I will be eternally grateful to both...

It was a very sad couple of weeks as I had to say goodbye to all my wonderful friends (unfortunately missed a few people) but at the same time I am quite looking forward to go and tame the red continent with my little flag... and if I put down the flag its mine :D There are of course those who are happy that I leave.... mainly my poker buddies from whom I took money which allowed me to eat meat rather than Lidl noodles... unfortunately this didn t always happen specially when I was in a loosing streak (which looked as I was in one most of the time)... I though that it wasn t all misfortune... I think the fact that my poker ranking knowledge ends at three of a kind played a somehow relevant role in my mischief....

The intention of this blog is to try to keep everyone who might be interested in what I am up too updated... I am not sure how easy it will be to access internet and, I don t even know what my itinerary is ... with the same spirit that my ancestors who discovered the world without a map I will go with the flow and see where the cheap local buses take me..... for those that know I am leaving tomorrow around 19ish and I shall land in Cape Town on Monday.... not sure what I am gonna do whilst I am there (which I will be for approximately 3 days) and after going to Hermanus to do some White Shark Diving.... I will try to post something after.... if I don t please be happy for the shark who has eaten 72kg of prime portuguese meat ...

Hope that all is well... please feel free to leave your comments and accompany my adventure through the red continent...

Cheerios